Lotions made with Montanov™ 68 are described as being lighter and more moisturizing than those made with non-liquid crystal emulsifiers, like Polawax™ or Emulsifying Wax NF.
Montanov™ 68 is a non-ionic, liquid crystal emulsifier based on the HLB system. Liquid crystal emulsifiers create a lamellar or bilayered structure that mimics the lipid bilayers in our stratum corneum, which may help actives or lipids from our lotions penetrate our skin easier. They also help reduce transepidermal water loss as the lotions hold more water in contact with the skin for a longer period of time.
When formulating with this emulsifier, include it in the heated oil phase of your product. Montanov™ 68 does best with a 25% oil phase, and works to emulsify natural oils as well as silicones and esters. Including a fatty alcohol like Cetyl or Cetearyl Alcohol can help increase the liquid crystal formation in the lotion. It is compatible with cationic ingredients, like Honeyquat and Cetrimonium Chloride. And it works well from pH 3 to 10, so it’s a good choice for making lotions as diverse as light facial moisturizers with AHAs and bleaching or depilatory creams.
- Sunscreens and after-sun products
- Makeup products
- Skin lightening products
- Anti-aging products
- Creams and lotions
To make a lotion with Montanov™ 68, heat the emulsifier in a separate container with the oil phase to 75°C (168°F). Pour the heated water phase into the heated oil phase and mix with a stick blender until the emulsion forms. Switch to a low shear mixer like a hand mixer or hand whisk once the emulsion forms. Add any cool down phase ingredients at 40°C (104°F).